Place the board across the tiles, and tap the board lightly with the rubber mallet. If the marble is polished you may want to cover the front of the wood with a piece of carpet to prevent scratches.
You can also do this across multiple rows when you have more tiles installed. Once you reach the wall with the first row, take note of the gap at the end that may require a custom-cut piece. Then, move back to the center point of the reference lines, and continue to place tiles adjacent to the first row. Take a moment after every few tiles to ensure that all of your lines meet up and the entire floor looks sharp and consistent.
As you work, be careful not to step on any installed tiles. Typically, marble floor tile should be allowed to set for at least 48 hours after installation. Because of this, you have to be careful not to tile yourself into a corner that you can not escape from. Be sure to leave a traffic path for yourself; the last quadrant you work on should be the one where the door is located. Use a wet tile saw to cut tiles as needed. Smaller, portable saws are able to handle basic straight cuts on tiles up to 12 inches.
Rental charges may include a flat fee for the saw plus a prorated charge for wear on the diamond blade. For difficult cuts, or if you prefer not to use a saw, ask your tile supplier if they will cut pieces for you.
If you need to cut holes in marble tile, such as may be necessary if you have plumbing pipes coming up through the floor, special hole saws with diamond-encrusted cutting edges can be used. The hole saws are simply mounted in a power drill. Make sure to cut at a slow speed to prevent overheating the hole saw.
If there is any excess adhesive that has oozed up from the gaps between tiles, use a paint stick or utility knife to remove it. When all tile has been installed, let the mortar adhesive dry completely, following the manufacturer's directions. Do not walk on the floor during this time, or you risk moving or depressing a tile. Marble is porous, and many materials can penetrate the surface of the stone, causing permanent stains.
For this reason, it must be sealed with a high-quality marble tile sealant before you grout. Grout can badly stain marble tile if it is applied before the marble is sealed. If you have polished marble, apply a very thin coat of sealant.
Use the foam brush to smooth out any puddles or tiny bubbles that appear on the surface, as they can dry into permanent features. The surface of tumbled and honed marble will be more forgiving, but the same rules apply there, as well. It's generally a good idea to seal a marble tile at least twice—and perhaps several times—waiting for each coat to dry before applying a new one. This creates a strong protective layer on the surface of the material.
You may need to reseal the tile every 6 to 12 months, depending on how much traffic the room gets. Mix the grout as directed by the manufacturer. As with the mortar, mix only as much as you can apply in about 15 or 20 minutes—the point where the grout starts to set up. Use a grout float to apply the grout to the joints, using a sweeping motion to force it down into the joints.
Holding the tool slightly on edge can help push the grout downward. Try to direct as much of the mix into the grooves as possible, and wipe up any excess that gets on the tiles.
Ideally, the seams between tiles must be fully packed with grout, without void areas. Use a large grout sponge that is slightly damp to gently wipe the surface of the marble tiles clean and remove excess grout. Be careful not to allow any moisture to seep down into the grout lines, as this can cause the mix to become muddy and wash out.
Allow the grout to cure as directed. Check the grout manufacturer's recommended waiting time before sealing the grout. Waiting for seven days is not uncommon. Seal the grout with a foam brush, following the manufacturer's directions for application. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile.
Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights. Before installing marble floor tile, make sure to protect yourself by wearing gloves, protective eyewear, and a facemask. Then, measure the length and width of the floor, create a layout on paper, and chalk out a grid on the floor. Once everything is laid out, apply a layer of thin-set adhesive on the floor surface using a notched trowel and lay the marble tiles firmly in the adhesive.
To learn how to seal the marble, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles.
Article Summary. Part 1. Wear gloves, eye protection and a facemask. These will protect your hands, eyes and lungs as you install your marble tiles. Remove any existing tiles. If you are installing the marble on a floor that is already tiled then you must remove the old tiles first. Ceramic tiles can be smashed with a hammer and then removed. Try to hammer the ceramic in a localized area, starting from the middle and moving out. Vinyl tiles should be ripped up with a pry bar.
Clean the floor surface you plan to tile and allow it to dry. Before installing any tiles you will want to make sure that the floor surface beneath the tiles is thoroughly cleaned and dried.
Use a long level to make sure the floor area is level. Marble is a very soft tile and can be particularly susceptible to cracking if it is not installed on a level surface.
Use the longest level possible to make sure your floor is level. You can try sanding down any bumps that raise the floor or filling in any depressions in the floor surface with thin-set cement. Wait for the cement to completely dry before continuing. You may also need to lay a plywood subfloor to make the floor level. Inspect the tiles. Run your finger nails over the tiles to make sure there are not cracks or gaps in the polished surface of the tile. You should not use any tiles that have these cracks or gaps because they might break in the process of installation or use.
Most hardware stores will accept exchanges of tiles that have cracks or gaps in them. Measure the length and width of the floor and create a layout on paper. Plan your installation on paper using the floor dimensions and sizes of the tiles. Decide on your pattern for laying the tiles. You can lay them in rows or in a pyramid-like structure or in other patterns. Draw the pattern to scale on paper. You want to keep most tiles full-sized so that you do not have to cut them.
You also do not want strips of tile that are less than 2 inches 5 cm wide. Mark the center of your floor. Measure the center of each wall and make a light mark with a pencil. Then take a chalk snap line and hold it to either end of the centers of two opposing walls. Lower the line and snap it to the floor to make a chalk line.
Do this for the other two walls as well. Where the two chalk lines meet is the center of your floor. You usually want tiles to radiate from the center of your floor. Mark your grid on the floor using the chalk line.
Continue snapping the chalk line on the floor in the planned grid. This will mark down where your tiles should go. Part 2. Place the tiles in the pattern. Place your tiles within the grid you have created. This dry-run allows you to identify areas where you will need to cut tiles to fit and will help you determine the best place to start laying the tile based on your pattern and the shape of the area you plan to tile. If the gap between the last complete tile and the wall is less than 2 inches 5 cm then you should move the center tile over.
This makes the strip of tile in this area wider, which will look nicer when you lay your tiles. Apply a layer of thin-set adhesive on the floor surface using a notched trowel. Be sure to wear heavy-duty work gloves and work one section of the floor at a time. The adhesive should be thick enough that you can use the notched edge of the trowel to make grooves in the adhesive without showing the floor below, but thin enough that it does not push up between the tiles.
The grooves ensure that the adhesive spreads evenly on the back of the tiles. Choose the adhesive recommended for your type of marble. Ask at the location where you purchase your tiles about the proper adhesive to use. Lay marble tiles firmly in the thin-set adhesive. Lay the tiles on top of the adhesive within 10 minutes of applying the adhesive. Be careful not to slide the tiles into place or get adhesive on the top of the tiles. Sliding the tiles into place will push up the adhesive and make the tiles uneven, causing them to crack.
Adhesive will be difficult to remove from the tops of the tiles. Position the tiles in place using spacers. Use spacers to create the correct spacing between the tiles and keep them even with straight lines along the rows and columns. Spacers help ensure proper placement of the tiles. Check the level of the tiles. Take a length of wood and lay it across the tops of the marble tiles, using a hammer to lightly tap the wood down.
This ensures that all the tiles are at the same level. Use the piece of wood in both directions along the grid to make all the tiles exactly the same level. Measure the dimension of any partial tiles needed by placing one tile on top of the full tile closest to the wall. Place another tile against the wall so that the edge of the second tile lays on top of the first tile. Score a line in the first tile using a utility knife to mark your cut line for the correct width of tile needed.
Use a wet saw to cut the tiles to fit in the edges along the walls or special spaces. In order to minimize the risk of tiles breaking when they are being cut, saw three-fourths of the length of the tile, turn the tile around and then cut the remaining length. Repeat the process until you have cut all the specially sized tiles and placed them into the adhesive. You can usually rent a wet saw for a day from a local hardware store or tool rental company.
Remove any excess adhesive between the tiles. If you have put too much adhesive beneath the tiles or push the tiles down too hard then it can push up between the tiles. If this has happened then you must take a small knife to cut out these extra bits. Leave tiles undisturbed hours to allow adhesive to dry completely.
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