Am I missing something with removal? Do you know anyone in the Charlotte. NC area that would want them? Thanks, Craig. Do you know anyone who would do restoration work for steel casement windows circa in the bay area, CA?
The Wooden Window referenced here appears to be out of business. Just bought a brick veneer house with steel casement windows. Looking forward to restoring the windows but would like to reduce heat loss through the panes and the effects of the steel thermal bridge.
What type of glass pane should I be looking for and are there any paints that I could use to reduce the thermal bridge? Great guide! Hi Scott! I am starting on the inside but last fall I cleaned the outsides of the windows and noticed a now crusty, probably once fluid substance that has randomly seemed to seep from the top of some of the glass panes.
Do you have any ideas on what this might be and if I can do anything in my restoration process to prevent it in the future?
Is there a step I need to add somewhere? If the glazing putty is new then it might be some of the oil seeping out and solidifying on the glass. So much interesting info here. Im learning to love my old steel casements in my english tudor even though i hated them not so long ago!. Does your ebook talk about the steps in fixing up the interior of the steel casement windows? Hi there, I have a home with many steel casement windows in NY. I love them but OMG — are they drafty.
The cold just blowing right in. Remember NY winters get really cold! We put up the frost plastic, heat shrink, sheet barrier which helps some but not great. Are there any tips, beside reapplying the putty to help stop the drafts???
I read somewhere about applying silicone to the inside of the window, take baking sheet and cut strips, place on top of the silicone, then close the window, let it dry for a day….. They are all rusted but appear to be solid. A casement stay adjuster opens and closes your casement windows so you can let in just the right amount of fresh air. With our solid brass and cast iron casement window stays and adjusters, you'll enhance the look of any window while providing smooth and efficient operation.
This premium, solid-brass casement stay delivers smooth function and long-lasting wear. The traditional-style, knurled knob lets you open, close, and secure your vintage, outswing casement windows with ease.
This heavy-duty casement adjuster is constructed from solid, cast iron. It includes two sill mounted keepers and holes for five opening positions. Offered in durable matte black and lacquered antique iron finishes, it's a great choice for colonial, Tudor, Spanish or rustic country houses!
This solid-brass casement stay delivers smooth function and long-lasting wear. It includes two sill mounted keepers and holes for three opening positions. This heavy-duty casement adjuster is constructed from solid, cast brass. Vinyl weatherstripping is usually glued to the frame, although some brands have an adhesive backing. As the vinyl material and the applied glue are relatively thick, this form of weatherstripping may not be appropriate for all situations.
Compressible foam tape weatherstripping is often best for large windows where there is a slight bending or distortion of the sash. In some very tall windows having closure hardware at the sash midpoint, the thin sections of the metal window will bow away from the frame near the top. If the gap exceeds this, the window may need to be realigned to close more tightly.
The foam weatherstripping comes either with an adhesive or plain back; the latter variety requires application with glue.
Compressible foam requires more frequent replacement than either spring-metal or vinyl weatherstripping. A fourth type of successful weatherstripping involves the use of a caulking or sealant bead and a polyethylene bond breaker tape. After the window frame has been thoroughly cleaned with solvent, permitted to dry, and primed, a neat bead of low modulus firm setting caulk, such as silicone, is applied.
A bond breaker tape is then applied to the operable sash covering the metal section where contact will occur. The window is then closed until the sealant has set 27 days, depending on temperature and humidity. When the window is opened, the bead will have taken the shape of the air infiltration gap and the bond breaker tape can be removed.
This weatherstripping method appears to be successful for all types of metal windows with varying degrees of air infiltration. Since the several types of weatherstripping are appropriate for different circumstances, it may be necessary to use more than one type on any given building.
Successful weatherstripping depends upon using the thinnest material adequate to fill the space through which air enters. Weatherstripping that is too thick can spring the hinges, thereby resulting in more gaps. The weatherstripping is applied after the repaired windows are painted to avoid galvanic corrosion. This type of thin weatherstripping is intended for windows in good condition.
Applied adhesive is necessary which will increase the thickness of the weatherstripping, making it inappropriate for some situations. The weatherstripping is generally applied to the window after painting. However, this type of weatherstripping will need frequent replacement on windows in regular use. The metal section should be cleaned of all dirt and grease prior to its application. This very effective type of weatherstripping involves the application of a clean bead of firm setting caulk on the primed frame with a polyethelene bond breaker tape on the operable sash.
The window is then closed until the bead has set and takes the form of the gap. The sash is then opened and the tape is removed leaving the set caulk as the weatherstripping. Historic steel sash can be fitted with dual glazing to improve thermal efficiency. Another weatherization treatment is to install an additional layer of glazing to improve the thermal efficiency of the existing window.
The decision to pursue this treatment should proceed from careful analysis. Each of the most common techniques for adding a layer of glazing will effect approximately the same energy savings approximately double the original insulating value of the windows ; therefore, cost and aesthetic considerations usually determine the choice of method. Methods of adding a layer of glazing to improve thermal efficiency include adding a new layer of transparent material to the window; adding a separate storm window; and replacing the single layer of glass in the window with thermal glass.
The least expensive of these options is to install a clear material usually rigid sheets of acrylic or glass over the original window. The choice between acrylic and glass is generally based on cost, ability of the window to support the material, and long-term maintenance outlook. If the material is placed over the entire window and secured to the frame, the sash will be inoperable. If the continued use of the window is important for ventilation or for fire exits , separate panels should be affixed to the sash without obstructing operability.
Glass or acrylic panels set in frames can be attached using magnetized gaskets, interlocking material strips, screws or adhesives. Acrylic panels can be screwed directly to the metal windows, but the holes in the acrylic panels should allow for the expansion and contraction of this material. A compressible gasket between the prime sash and the storm panel can be very effective in establishing a thermal cavity between glazing layers.
Such cuts, however, reduce thermal performance slightly. If condensation does occur, however, the panels should be easily removable in order to wipe away moisture before it causes corrosion.
The second method of adding a layer of glazing is to have independent storm windows fabricated. Pivot and austral windows, however, which project on either side of the window frame when open, cannot easily be fitted with storm windows and remain operational.
The storm window should be compatible with the original sash configuration. For example, in paired casement windows, either specially fabricated storm casement windows or sliding units in which the vertical meeting rail of the slider reflects the configuration of the original window should be installed. The decision to place storm windows on the inside or outside of the window depends on whether the historic window opens in or out, and on the visual impact the addition of storm windows will have on the building.
Exterior storm windows, however, can serve another purpose besides saving energy: they add a layer of protection against air pollutants and vandals, although they will partially obscure the prime window. For highly ornamental windows this protection can determine the choice of exterior rather then interior storm windows. The third method of installing an added layer of glazing is to replace the original single glazing with thermal glass.
Except in rare instances in which the original glass is of special interest as with stained or figured glass , the glass can be replaced if the hinges can tolerate the weight of the additional glass. Metal glazing beads, readily available, are used to reinforce the muntins, which hold the glass.
This treatment leaves the window fully operational while preserving the historic appearance. It is, however, the most expensive of the treatments discussed here. Repair of historic windows is always preferred within a rehabilitation project. Replacement should be considered only as a last resort. However, when the extent of deterioration or the unavailability of replacement sections renders repair impossible, replacement of the entire window may be justified.
This is a successsful replacement in kind of the deteriorated frame shown above. In the case of significant windows, replacement in kind is essential in order to maintain the historic character of the building. However, for less significant windows, replacement with compatible new windows may be acceptable.
In selecting compatible replacement windows, the material, configuration, color, operability, number and size of panes, profile and proportion of metal sections, and reflective quality of the original glass should be duplicated as closely as possible. A number of metal window manufacturing companies produce rolled steel windows.
While stock modern window designs do not share the multi-pane configuration of historic windows, most of these manufacturers can reproduce the historic configuration if requested, and the cost is not excessive for large orders. Some manufacturers still carry the standard pre-World War II multi-light windows using the traditional 12" x 18" or 14" x 20" glass sizes in industrial, commercial, security, and residential configurations.
In addition, many of the modern steel windows have integral weatherstripping, thermal break construction, durable vinyl coatings, insulating glass, and other desirable features. Windows manufactured from other materials generally cannot match the thin profiles of the rolled steel sections.
Aluminum, for example, is three times weaker than steel and must be extruded into a boxlike configuration that does not reflect the thin historic profiles of most steel windows.
Wooden and vinyl replacement windows generally are not fabricated in the industrial style, nor can they reproduce the thin profiles of the rolled steel sections, and consequently are generally not acceptable replacements.
For product information on replacement windows, the owner, architect, or contractor should consult manufacturers' catalogues, building trade journals, or the Steel Window Institute, Keith Building, Cleveland, Ohio The National Park Service recommends the retention of significant historic metal windows whenever possible.
Such windows, which can be a character-defining feature of a historic building, are too often replaced with inappropriate units that impair rather than complement the overall historic appearance. The repair and thermal upgrading of historic steel windows is more practicable than most people realize. Repaired and properly maintained metal windows have greatly extended service lives.
They can be made energy efficient while maintaining their contribution to the historic character of the building. The author gratefully acknowledges the invaluable assistance of co-worker Michael Auer in preparing this brief for publication.
This publication is an extension of research initiated by Frederec E. Special thanks are given to Hope's Architectural Products, Inc. View fullsize Single casement, operable transom. View fullsize Single casement, fixed side lights, fixed transom.
View fullsize Single casement, fixed transom, diamond leaded glass. View fullsize Double casement, diamond leaded glass. View fullsize Single casement, fixed side light. View fullsize Fixed cathedral top, diamond leaded glass.
0コメント